Felder Felder
This is going to be a bit of a chunky post, I mentioned last week that Jean-Pierre Braganza‘s show was my favourite this season, but these are my other highlights from the shows I attended. There were so many photos I wanted to share & designers or pieces I wanted to talk about from LFW, but I didn’t want you guys to get fed up with coverage of every one individually as it would last for weeks, so I thought a highlights post would work best.
Felder Felder
Spring/Summer shows are never my favourite, for obvious reasons, but I was glad to see Felder Felder finished their show with a little darkness, despite the very light, bohemian kind of start with reptile prints, metallic leathers and lots of white, blues & greens. I completely fell in love with the deep red floral dress, even though I’m not usually a fan of floral or prints & the gauzy layers of black chiffons & cottons were perfect inspiration for an all black summer.
Swedish School of Textiles
Felix Roll
Johanna Billeqvist
Gabriela Vallejos Castro
Linda Dekhla
Majli af Ekenstam
Johanna Karlsson
Ina Hjelte
Karin Mellqvist
I always enjoy seeing the work of freshly graduated designers & I had been looking forward to the Swedish School of Textiles show, expecting to see lots of bold, exciting designs & techniques on display. Felix Roll opened the show with his sculptural white dresses, taking inspiration from the human body in motion & creating fresh, awkwardly beautiful silhouettes. The minimalist finish & ghostly white palette let the shape alone do all the talking & it was definitely a memorable way to start things off.
I also loved Gabriela Vallejos Castro’s use of iridescent fabrics in a very grown up, relaxed kind of way. It was the perfect mixing of textures, layering & drapery all in soft grey & white hues, it was so easy & (I hate this word but…) wearable compared to the others on show that it really stood out & it almost tempted me away from black for a second! Of the few MA students, my favourite was Ina Hjelte’s exercise in alternative garment construction, ‘garments are minimized of all unnecessary cuts & seams and instead are formed by interweaving fabric through different cuts and layers’. I thought the concept, and the outcome all spliced neoprene, latex & organza was really interesting.
Other stand outs for me were Johanna Billeqvist and her soft draping, Majli af Ekenstam’s gorgeous digital prints & Johanna Karlsson’s fun take on traditional folk costumes dragged into the digital age – I really need that polar bear backpack!
Find out more about the school & see the full collections of each of the graduates here.
David Koma
David Koma
David Koma was the last show of the season for me, as I was only able to go down for the long weekend thanks to work, but it was the perfect way to end things. I have long been a fan of his & those ultra body con, sculptural silhouettes that he has become so known for. I often think that male designers are far better at creating clothes that really play up, accentuate & flatter the female form, and he is a prime example of that, his clothes are always that perfect strong, elegant kind of sexy. The type of pieces you put on & feel instantly fierce and powerful in.
I loved the pops of citrus yellow & blues through the mostly black & white collection, it was fresh & graphic, the white dresses with just a simple stripe of yellow at the waistband being some of my favourites. He also managed to do sparkle in a way that made even me want to get in on it, the strict stripes of crystals were striking & the glittering outfits were a stunning finale to the show.
Leave a Reply